Growing Pear Trees at Home
If you want to know how to grow a pear tree at home, your in the right place. We will take you through the steps to grow a pear tree from seed. Just follow these steps.
You can grow your pears, without buying small pear trees. What if we told you, you can grow your own pear trees, from a single pear, all by yourself. All you will need is a few pears (store-bought or homegrown). Let’s get started!
Details for Growing Pear Trees
Planting seeds – winter, outside end of May – June
3-10 years to bear fruits
Temperature to Plant
70-75 F (21-24 degrees Celsius)
Bare Root Plant
19-25 feet (5.7-7.6 m)
6 + (8+ ideal)
Well-drained – non-retaining
6–6.5 best / 5-7.5 good
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Seven Steps to Growing a Pear Tree
As with most fruit trees, they prefer light soil, so sandy loam soil is perfect. The ground needs well-drained to avoid being soaked for too long. Ensure the rainwater easily clears from the area is never waterlogged.
Soil pH Level
If you are adding to the soil in place, this will affect the soil pH, to be on the safe side you can test the soil beforehand and make sure the soil has a pH level of 6.0 to 6.5 for best practice.
Soil pH Testing
You need to make sure that you accurately test your soil to give your plants the best chance. This Apera kit has ±0.1 pH accuracy, see the star ratings over at Amazon.
Prepare the Seeds
You can grow your own pear trees from seed. It’s best if the seeds are collected at the beginning of February. You don’t have to spend money, on special pear seeds or trees, as regular pears from the store, will do just fine.
Remove Seeds from Pear
Cut the pear into quarters, vertically. You should get 4 pieces with the seeds exposed. Remove them with your fingers or with a plastic spoon. You can use store-bought or homegrown pears.
It’s important that pears are ripe when you are collecting the seeds. The seeds can be stored in a cold place (fridge or cellar) for up to two years.
Soak the Seeds
Pick the number of seeds you would like to plant, and place them in a bowl filled with water, soak overnight. If any of the seeds float, you should throw them away. The healthy seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl.
You will need to get some peat moss or regular planting soil. Moss is good at retaining water, so you won’t have to water it, that often. Find a medium-sized plastic bag, and fill it with soil or moss. Add water inside the bag, to make it moist.
The moss or soil should be moist, but not “swimming” in water. If you use soil, chances are, you will have to add water more often.
Bury the Seeds
Now you can bury your pear seeds in the bag. Keep in mind, that not all the seeds will germinate, and always add a few more, just to be safe.
You can bury from 4-6 seeds in a medium-sized bag, or more if you choose a bigger bag. Take the seeds, and push them 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) deep, into the soil or moss.
Germinate in the Fridge
Now you can keep the bag inside the refrigerator, from 2-3 months. The seeds will start the germination process. If you choose moss, it should stay quite moist, but check on it every 10 days.
If you choose soil, you might have to add water more often. In any case, a spray bottle can be used, to re moisten the soil or moss when necessary.
The best way to germinate your seeds so that they have a great start is with a germination kit. Seeds that are grown this way produce greater results. Check the specs of the MXIC over at Amazon.
When outdoor temperatures “climb” above 40 F (4 degrees Celsius), you can take your bag from the refrigerator. Make sure there is no risk of frost or severe cold, before removing the bag.
Because the seeds have been cooled for so long, you will need to soften them before planting. Add them to a glass of warm water, and let them soak for two days. As mentioned before, any seeds that will float on the surface, have to be discarded.
Transplant the Seeds
Use a smaller pot or a plastic container to plant the seeds. You can plant a different number of seeds, depending on the size of the container. Make sure the seeds are at least 1.5-2 inches (4-5 cm) apart.
Planting the Seeds
To remember the location of the seeds, you can mark the approximate “location” with a marker on the walls of the plastic container. It’s good if your pot or container has little holes on the bottom, for the excess water to run away.
If not, you can always make some. After planting the seeds, water them until the soil is moist. Make sure you don’t overwater. It will take 12-23 days for the little plants to appear.
You should keep your pot with seedlings, in a warm area with indirect sunlight (but bright enough). Make sure you check the soil moisture regularly, and water when needed.
Now you have to wait for your seedlings, to grow a little more mature. The small leaves they form in the beginning, are not “real” leaves, as they are there to feed the plant as it grows.
Transplant to Bigger Pots
After the plants have 4-5 real leaves, (like you would see on a mature pear tree), then you can transplant them to bigger pots. For best results, every seedling should have its own pot. You can gently remove the seedlings with your hands, or help yourself with tools.
Be careful not to damage the roots. Fill 3/4 of a bigger container with soil, and make a hole a little bigger than the root structure of the seedling. Plant the seedling, and gently tap the soil around to “seal it”.
Mature The Young Plant
You can keep your seedlings indoors if it’s too early to take them out. It’s better if you give them more time to mature and grow stronger.
The best time to take your seedlings outside is the end of May or beginning of June. The sooner you transplant them, the more time they will have, to establish a strong root system before the winter comes. Your pear tree will need an area with enough sunlight (at least 6 hours a day) and well-drained soil.
Don’t plant them in areas with excess water on the surface. A single pear tree needs at least 19-25 feet (5.7-7.6 m) of space, for healthy growth. You can plant from 2-3 trees because the pears will produce more if cross-pollinated.
Dig a Hole
The hole you dig should be a little wider and deeper, than the actual root ball. Make some extra space for the roots to properly adjust themselves. At this point, you don’t have to use fertilizer, unless needed because of poor soil quality. To help your little tree grow straight, you can use a wooden stick or pole, and tie it next to the tree.
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If some branches on the tree dry out, or the leaves are damaged, you will have to cut them off. You can do this at the beginning of spring every year, removing all the sick or excess branches.
It’s optimal when the branches are from 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) apart. It’s possible, that you will have your fruit after three years, but it can take up to 10 years for the tree to produce fruit.
Most of the smaller trees can benefit from a protective “fence” or guard. You can add a plastic or metal net around the tree, or make a fence with wooden sticks.
The combination of both is even better, wooden sticks around the tree, surrounded by a net. This will protect the tree from animals. When the tree is strong and big enough, you can remove the protection.
The First Year
For the first year of growth, your tree will need regular watering. Water your tree once a week, in the morning or evening. Always check the soil, and if the soil is still moist, you don’t have to water. It’s good to use specialized fertilizer at least once a year. You can ask at your local garden store.
One of the issues people have is that their crops produce all at once. The best way to overcome this is with a dehydrator so you can store your food for years and the flavor is amazing. The best one on the market is the Excalibur with a 10 year guarantee, see it at Amazon.